The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke

Surfer’s Journal, September 2007

“The Surfboard serves as a general catalog and survey of surf craft form the 20th century onwards.”

Transworld Surf, September 2007

“It’s a cool look back at the most important piece of equipment in our sport.”

Beach, November 2007

“The Surfboard deserves a place in every surfer’s library.”

Spirit of Aloha, October 2007

“In a beautiful labor of life, love and energy, he [Marcus] has compiled the first actual history of this ocean icon (ancient Hawaiians surfed in homage to the sea’s gods), from old time wave-riding redwood planks to the light-weight, vacuum-sealed technological marvels of the present. The Surfboard features stunning studio photographs, historical prints and engravings, and close-ups of surfboards … Fascinating and essential, even if you don’t go near the water.”

Pitpilot (UK), October 2007

“Marcus has done a sterling job of putting this book together and accurately describing it as the first ever history of the surfboard … This book superbly and colorfully documents that evolution of the surfboard.”

Even in the beginning, the surfboard was a religious icon. The ancient Hawaiians rode their koa boards in homage to the sea’s gods. And today, surfing is a philosophy and a way of life rolled into one.

Here is the first ever history of the surfboard! From the Hawaiians’ monstrous koa planks to the latest and greatest plastic fantastic masterpieces, the surfboard’s tale is told in glorious photography and stoked text.

The history of the surfboard stretches back centuries—perhaps even millennia. It’s a rollicking story both cultural and technological, like a cross between a thriller, a science fiction fantasy, and a Frankie Avalon–Annette Funicello movie, all set to a rocking surf-guitar soundtrack.

It’s also a long, twisting tale of innovation—innovation that has in turn shaped surfing into the stunning sport it is today.

Beautifully illustrated with studio photographs and close-ups of surfboards, as well as historical images and the latest surf photography, this book documents the surfboard’s evolution as a perfect convergence of form and function.

Author Ben Marcus writes for Surfer, The Surfer’s Journal, and other magazines. Photographer Jeff Divine is one of the world’s foremost surfing shooters and photo editor at The Surfer’s Journal. And Juliana Morais photographed Fernando Aguerre’s amazing collection of rare, historic, unusual, and famous surfboards to create The Surfboard: Art, Style, Stoke!